As the days grow shorter and the chill sets in, our palates yearn for hearty, comforting dishes that warm us from the inside out. Enter Selin Kiazim, a London-based chef with Turkish-Cypriot roots, who has just the recipes to banish the winter blues and transport our taste buds to sunnier climes. Her mouthwatering semolina-crusted fried cod and slow-braised vegetable güveç are the epitome of soul-satisfying fare, with a Mediterranean twist that will leave you craving more.
Sunshine on a Plate: Selin Kiazim’s Culinary Journey
Born to Turkish-Cypriot parents, Selin Kiazim grew up immersed in the vibrant flavors and traditions of her ancestral homeland. “I’m an island baby,” she declares with a smile, “I’ve got sunshine running through my veins.” It’s this deep connection to her roots that inspires Kiazim’s cooking, as she seeks to share the comforting dishes of her childhood with a wider audience.
After honing her skills in some of London’s top kitchens, Kiazim opened her own restaurant, Oklava, in 2015. There, she showcases the rich culinary heritage of Cyprus and Turkey, with a modern twist that has earned her critical acclaim and a loyal following. But for Kiazim, it’s not just about the accolades – it’s about the joy of sharing good food with others.
Fried to Perfection: Semolina-Crusted Cod with Ezme
One of Kiazim’s signature dishes is her semolina-crusted fried cod, served with a zesty coriander and chilli ezme. The cod fillets are dredged in a mixture of fine semolina and flour, which creates a delightfully crunchy exterior when fried. But it’s the ezme that really steals the show – a Turkish salsa-like condiment that packs a punch of flavor.
“Ezme means ‘to crush’ in Turkish,” explains Kiazim. “It’s a staple accompaniment to many meals, from grilled meats to fish. But sometimes, it’s so good that it becomes the star of the show.”
To make the ezme, Kiazim chars green peppers and chillies over an open flame until blistered and blackened. She then peels away the skin, discarding the seeds and pith, before finely chopping the flesh and mixing it with coriander, spring onions, olive oil, and lemon juice. The result is a bright, zingy condiment that perfectly complements the crispy fried cod.
A Taste of Home: Slow-Braised Vegetable Güveç
For a true taste of Cyprus, Kiazim turns to güveç – a traditional stew named after the earthenware pot in which it’s cooked. Her version is a colorful medley of roots and brassicas, slow-braised in a fragrant broth until meltingly tender.
“Güveç is the kind of dish that you’ll find bubbling away in kitchens all across the eastern Mediterranean and Balkans,” says Kiazim. “It’s the ultimate comfort food – warming, nourishing, and full of flavor.”
To make the güveç, Kiazim starts by sautéing garlic in olive oil until golden, before adding fennel seeds, pepper paste, and vinegar. She then layers in an array of vegetables – carrots, celeriac, cauliflower, cabbage – along with peppers, spring onions, and olives. The pot is covered and baked in a hot oven until the vegetables are soft and caramelized, their flavors melding together in a harmonious stew.
A Feast for the Senses
Served together, Kiazim’s fried cod and vegetable güveç make for a feast that is as visually stunning as it is delicious. The golden-hued cod fillets, flecked with crimson spices, nestle alongside the earthy, jewel-toned stew, a riot of color and texture that is sure to banish any winter blues.
But for Kiazim, these dishes are more than just a sum of their ingredients – they are a celebration of her heritage, a way of connecting with her roots and sharing the flavors of her childhood with others. “When I cook these recipes, I feel like I’m back in Cyprus, surrounded by family and friends,” she says with a smile. “And that’s what I want to share with my diners – that sense of warmth, comfort, and belonging.”
So the next time you find yourself longing for a taste of sunshine on a dreary day, why not try your hand at Selin Kiazim’s semolina-crusted fried cod and vegetable güveç? With their irresistible combination of crispy, crunchy, and meltingly tender textures, and their bold, bright flavors, these dishes are sure to become a staple in your winter recipe repertoire. And who knows – they might just transport you to a sun-drenched Cypriot kitchen, if only for a blissful moment or two.
