Picture this: golden landscapes painted in hues of amber and crimson, the crisp air filled with the aroma of cinnamon and roasted chestnuts, and the gentle rhythm of a train gliding through the heart of Europe. This is the essence of winterrailing – a enchanting way to explore the continent’s most charming cities and stunning landscapes during the quieter, cooler months. Join us as we embark on a captivating off-season rail adventure through France, Germany, and Switzerland, discovering the joys of crowd-free sightseeing, cozy cafes, and the magic of embracing the oncoming winter.
Strasbourg: Where Medieval Charm Meets Modern Europe
Our journey begins in the heart of Alsace, in the picturesque city of Strasbourg. As we emerge from the train station, we’re greeted by an unexpected sight – a dazzling blue sky and the warm glow of the sun illuminating the city’s iconic half-timbered buildings. Strasbourg, it seems, has decided to welcome us with open arms and a delightful surprise.
Wasting no time, we make our way to the city’s crown jewel – the Notre-Dame Cathedral. This gothic masterpiece, with its delicately carved sandstone facade and soaring 142-metre spire, has watched over Strasbourg since the 15th century. As the sun begins to set, the cathedral’s facade is bathed in a mesmerizing red glow, a sight that will forever be etched in our memories.
But Strasbourg is more than just a pretty face. This city, which vies with Brussels for the title of “Capital of Europe,” is also a gastronomic powerhouse. In the cozy warmth of a traditional Winstub, we indulge in hearty Alsatian fare – steaming choucroute piled high with sausages and tender pork knuckle, accompanied by a crisp glass of local Riesling. It’s a taste of the region’s rich culinary heritage, one that’s best savored during the colder months.
The Black Forest Railway: A Journey Into the Unknown
From Strasbourg, we cross the border into Germany, where the Black Forest Railway awaits. As our train winds its way through the Kinzig Valley, the landscape transforms before our eyes. Orderly vineyards and gentle pastures give way to something wilder – densely forested hillsides, their slopes ablaze with the fiery hues of autumn. The rocky summits, shrouded in low-hanging clouds, lend an air of mystery to the scene, as if the landscape itself is whispering tales of the Brothers Grimm.
Lake Constance: Where Three Countries Meet
Our next stop is the charming university town of Konstanz, nestled on the shores of Lake Constance. This vast body of water, shared by Germany, Switzerland, and Austria, is a sight to behold – even on a drizzly day, its surface shimmers with a soft, pearlescent glow. We take refuge in one of the town’s many cozy cafes, indulging in the time-honored German tradition of Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake).
But Konstanz is more than just a pretty face. During World War II, the town’s residents kept their lights on during air raids, tricking Allied bombers into thinking they were part of neutral Switzerland. This clever ruse paid off – the town’s medieval center, with its twisting alleys and ornate merchant houses, survived unscathed. Today, we can marvel at these architectural treasures and learn about the town’s fascinating history at the excellent Rosgarten Museum.
Zurich: A City of Surprises
Our railrailing adventure continues with an unexpected delight – the vibrant city of Zurich. Known primarily as a financial hub, Switzerland’s largest city is often overlooked by travelers. But as we discover, Zurich is a treasure trove of hidden gems waiting to be uncovered.
We start our exploration with a leisurely stroll down the elegant Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s ritziest shopping street, before diving into the narrow alleys of the old town. Here, we find a labyrinth of charming boutiques, artisanal chocolate shops, and high-end perfumeries. A quick peek inside the Fraumünster church reveals a dazzling surprise – vivid stained-glass windows designed by none other than Marc Chagall.
But it’s the lakeside promenade that truly captures our hearts. Bathed in the soft glow of the late autumn sun, the lake sparkles like a jewel, its shores lined with families out for a stroll and street performers entertaining the crowds. We follow the shoreline until we reach the Seebad Utoquai – a 19th-century wooden public bath built on stilts over the water. Here, we sip hot chocolate and watch in awe as a handful of brave locals take the plunge into the chilly waters, swimming out to the nearby pontoon.
The days when Lake Zurich used to freeze over entirely in winter are long behind us. Not only is the climate crisis redrawing the map of where we choose to travel – with many forsaking southern Europe in high summer – but it will inevitably affect when we travel, with more of us choosing to take our main holidays in the cooler months.
A longtime Zurich resident reflects on the changing face of travel
Paris: A Timeless Beauty in Any Season
Our winterrailing adventure comes to a close in the city of light – Paris. As we step off the train at Gare de Lyon, we’re greeted by the familiar sights and sounds of this timeless metropolis. The aroma of freshly baked croissants wafts through the air, mingling with the crisp scent of autumn leaves. Even in the off-season, Paris exudes an irresistible charm that draws visitors from all corners of the globe.
As we wander the city’s iconic boulevards and lesser-known backstreets, we can’t help but feel a sense of gratitude for this unforgettable journey. Winterrailing has allowed us to experience Europe in a new light – free from the crowds and the sweltering heat of summer, we’ve had the opportunity to immerse ourselves in the continent’s most enchanting cities and landscapes, savoring the simple pleasures of cozy cafes, golden vistas, and the gentle rhythm of the rails.
Embracing the Magic of Off-Season Travel
As we reflect on our adventure, we realize that winterrailing is more than just a way to avoid the crowds and the high prices of peak-season travel. It’s an invitation to embrace the unknown, to seek out the unexpected, and to discover the magic that lies waiting in the quieter corners of Europe.
So why not give it a try? Pack a suitcase full of warm layers, grab a rail pass, and set off on your own winterrailing adventure. You never know what surprises await you on the other side of the tracks.
But Strasbourg is more than just a pretty face. This city, which vies with Brussels for the title of “Capital of Europe,” is also a gastronomic powerhouse. In the cozy warmth of a traditional Winstub, we indulge in hearty Alsatian fare – steaming choucroute piled high with sausages and tender pork knuckle, accompanied by a crisp glass of local Riesling. It’s a taste of the region’s rich culinary heritage, one that’s best savored during the colder months.
The Black Forest Railway: A Journey Into the Unknown
From Strasbourg, we cross the border into Germany, where the Black Forest Railway awaits. As our train winds its way through the Kinzig Valley, the landscape transforms before our eyes. Orderly vineyards and gentle pastures give way to something wilder – densely forested hillsides, their slopes ablaze with the fiery hues of autumn. The rocky summits, shrouded in low-hanging clouds, lend an air of mystery to the scene, as if the landscape itself is whispering tales of the Brothers Grimm.
Lake Constance: Where Three Countries Meet
Our next stop is the charming university town of Konstanz, nestled on the shores of Lake Constance. This vast body of water, shared by Germany, Switzerland, and Austria, is a sight to behold – even on a drizzly day, its surface shimmers with a soft, pearlescent glow. We take refuge in one of the town’s many cozy cafes, indulging in the time-honored German tradition of Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake).
But Konstanz is more than just a pretty face. During World War II, the town’s residents kept their lights on during air raids, tricking Allied bombers into thinking they were part of neutral Switzerland. This clever ruse paid off – the town’s medieval center, with its twisting alleys and ornate merchant houses, survived unscathed. Today, we can marvel at these architectural treasures and learn about the town’s fascinating history at the excellent Rosgarten Museum.
Zurich: A City of Surprises
Our railrailing adventure continues with an unexpected delight – the vibrant city of Zurich. Known primarily as a financial hub, Switzerland’s largest city is often overlooked by travelers. But as we discover, Zurich is a treasure trove of hidden gems waiting to be uncovered.
We start our exploration with a leisurely stroll down the elegant Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s ritziest shopping street, before diving into the narrow alleys of the old town. Here, we find a labyrinth of charming boutiques, artisanal chocolate shops, and high-end perfumeries. A quick peek inside the Fraumünster church reveals a dazzling surprise – vivid stained-glass windows designed by none other than Marc Chagall.
But it’s the lakeside promenade that truly captures our hearts. Bathed in the soft glow of the late autumn sun, the lake sparkles like a jewel, its shores lined with families out for a stroll and street performers entertaining the crowds. We follow the shoreline until we reach the Seebad Utoquai – a 19th-century wooden public bath built on stilts over the water. Here, we sip hot chocolate and watch in awe as a handful of brave locals take the plunge into the chilly waters, swimming out to the nearby pontoon.
The days when Lake Zurich used to freeze over entirely in winter are long behind us. Not only is the climate crisis redrawing the map of where we choose to travel – with many forsaking southern Europe in high summer – but it will inevitably affect when we travel, with more of us choosing to take our main holidays in the cooler months.
A longtime Zurich resident reflects on the changing face of travel
Paris: A Timeless Beauty in Any Season
Our winterrailing adventure comes to a close in the city of light – Paris. As we step off the train at Gare de Lyon, we’re greeted by the familiar sights and sounds of this timeless metropolis. The aroma of freshly baked croissants wafts through the air, mingling with the crisp scent of autumn leaves. Even in the off-season, Paris exudes an irresistible charm that draws visitors from all corners of the globe.
As we wander the city’s iconic boulevards and lesser-known backstreets, we can’t help but feel a sense of gratitude for this unforgettable journey. Winterrailing has allowed us to experience Europe in a new light – free from the crowds and the sweltering heat of summer, we’ve had the opportunity to immerse ourselves in the continent’s most enchanting cities and landscapes, savoring the simple pleasures of cozy cafes, golden vistas, and the gentle rhythm of the rails.
Embracing the Magic of Off-Season Travel
As we reflect on our adventure, we realize that winterrailing is more than just a way to avoid the crowds and the high prices of peak-season travel. It’s an invitation to embrace the unknown, to seek out the unexpected, and to discover the magic that lies waiting in the quieter corners of Europe.
So why not give it a try? Pack a suitcase full of warm layers, grab a rail pass, and set off on your own winterrailing adventure. You never know what surprises await you on the other side of the tracks.
